What to check for watch authenticity

Work through a checklist

Reference and configuration. Dial printing and hands. Case and clasp markings. The movement, when you can see it or have it inspected. Bracelet and end links that belong together. Papers that match the watch without a story that keeps shifting. No single check replaces the whole picture.

Where you buy changes how hard you check

New from an authorized dealer: authenticity is rarely a question. New from a grey dealer: check authenticity and warranty terms. Pre-owned from a dealer: rely on their process, but still study the photos. Private sale: assume you need expertise or a pre-purchase inspection on anything expensive.

Frankenwatches and restorations

Genuine parts from different years can be mixed. Some restorations are honest and disclosed, and some are silent value traps. Service papers and parts invoices help. If the dial on a supposedly untouched 1960s watch looks too crisp, ask why.

Getting help

Someone who handles a lot of watches can often spot a problem from listing photos and tell you whether it's worth paying for a full inspection. Photo opinions have limits, though. When the stakes are high, get hands-on inspection.

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